Travel guide
Albania
by road
Beaches on the Ionian Sea, stone towns from the Ottoman era, and mountain valleys where the road ends at a guesthouse. Most of it is a few hours' drive from Tirana Airport. This guide covers where to go, how long it takes, and what to know before you drive.
EU, UK, US and many others can stay up to 90 days. Check the rule for your passport.
Euros are accepted in many tourist spots, but paying in lek usually gets you a better price. Keep some cash for parking, cafés and small towns.
Main routes are good. Mountain and village roads are slower than the map suggests.
Ambulance 127, police 129, fire 128, road police 126.
Where to go
Five regions, one small country
Albania is about 340 km from north to south. With a car you can wake up in the mountains and have dinner by the sea, though the mountain roads will take most of the day.
The Riviera
The southern coast from Vlorë to Ksamil. Clear water, pebble coves and village beaches below the Ceraunian Mountains.
Vlorë & Orikum
155 km · 2 hThe gateway to the south. A long seafront, Zvërnec monastery on its lagoon island, and boat trips to the Karaburun peninsula.
Llogara Pass
185 km · 2 h 30The old road climbs to about 1,000 m through pine forest, then drops in hairpins to the coast. The new tunnel is faster; the pass has the view.
Stop at the top for grilled lamb and the first look at the Riviera.
Dhërmi, Jale & Himarë
200–215 km · 3 hThe heart of the Riviera. Gjipe beach sits at the mouth of a canyon and is reached on foot. Himarë old town looks down over the bay.
Sarandë & Ksamil
280–295 km · 4 h 30Ksamil's small islands have the bluest water in the country. Butrint National Park, a UNESCO site with Greek, Roman and Venetian ruins, is ten minutes away.
In July and August, arrive at Ksamil beaches before 10:00 to park.
The stone towns
Two UNESCO-listed Ottoman towns and the ancient city between them.
Berat
130 km · 2 hThe "town of a thousand windows": white houses stacked up the hill below a castle where people still live. Walk Mangalem and Gorica at sunset.
Gjirokastër
230 km · 3 h 30Grey stone roofs, a huge hilltop fortress and tower houses you can visit, such as the Skenduli House.
The old bazaar streets are steep and narrow. Park below and walk up.
Apollonia
120 km · 1 h 45The ruins of a Greek and Roman city near Fier, on a quiet hill with olive trees. An easy stop on the way south.
Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
255 km · 4 hA deep spring that glows blue between Gjirokastër and Sarandë. Fits neatly into the drive between the two.
The Albanian Alps
The north. Jagged peaks, stone guesthouses and one of Europe's great boat rides.
Shkodër
95 km · 1 h 30A relaxed lakeside city with Rozafa Castle and lots of cyclists. The base for trips into the mountains.
Lake Komani ferry
150 km · 3 hAround 2.5 hours on a narrow reservoir between steep cliffs, from Koman to Fierzë. Boats leave in the morning and run roughly April to November.
Book ahead and check the day's timetable. Ask your rental company before taking the car on board.
Theth
170 km · 4 hA village at the end of a mountain valley, with the Grunas waterfall, the lock-in tower and the Blue Eye of Theth on foot.
Valbona
via Komani ferryThe valley on the other side of the Valbona Pass. Hikers walk between Theth and Valbona in one long day.
Tirana & the centre
Good for your first or last day, all within an hour of the airport.
Tirana
17 km · 25 minSkanderbeg Square, the Bunk'Art museums, the Blloku café district and the Dajti cable car up the mountain behind the city.
Krujë
25 km · 35 minSkanderbeg's castle town on a cliff, with an old bazaar for rugs, copper and felt. The closest big sight to the airport.
Durrës
35 km · 35 minAlbania's oldest city: a Roman amphitheatre in the middle of town and long sandy beaches south of the port.
The east
Lakes, mountain towns and the slowest pace in the country.
Pogradec & Lake Ohrid
150 km · 2 h 30One of Europe's oldest lakes. Drina river springs at Tushemisht and lakeside fish restaurants.
Korçë
200 km · 3 hCobbled lanes, a restored old bazaar and the national museum of medieval art. Cool in summer and lively at weekends.
Itineraries
Ready-made routes from the airport
Each route starts and ends at Tirana Airport. Drive times are without stops; add time for photos, lunch and slow traffic in summer.
The classic first trip: history on the way down, beaches at the bottom, a fortress town on the way back.
- Day 1Airport → Berat2 hPick up the car and drive south. Evening walk through Mangalem and up to the castle.
- Day 2Berat → Apollonia → Vlorë2 h 15Morning in the ruins of Apollonia, afternoon on the Vlorë seafront.
- Day 3Vlorë → Llogara Pass → Himarë1 h 30Take the old pass for the view, then swim at Dhërmi or Jale.
- Day 4Himarë → Gjipe → Ksamil2 hMorning walk down to Gjipe beach, then continue along the coast to Ksamil.
- Day 5Butrint & Ksamil20 minButrint early before the heat, afternoon on the Ksamil islands.
- Day 6Ksamil → Blue Eye → Gjirokastër1 h 45Stop at the Blue Eye spring, then the castle and old bazaar.
- Day 7Gjirokastër → Airport3 h 30Leave after breakfast; allow extra time before an evening flight.
Mountains first, then the coast. Best from June to September, when the northern roads and ferry are running.
- Day 1Airport → Krujë → Shkodër1 h 45Krujë castle and bazaar on the way north, sunset at Rozafa Castle.
- Day 2Shkodër → Theth2 h 30A spectacular mountain drive. Afternoon walk to the Grunas waterfall.
- Day 3Thethno drivingHike to the Blue Eye of Theth, or the Valbona Pass if you are fit.
- Day 4Theth → Shkodër → Koman3 h 30Back down the valley and on to the lake. Stay near Koman for the morning boat.
- Day 5Lake Komani & Shala Riverboat dayA return boat trip on the lake with a stop at the Shala River.
- Day 6Koman → Berat4 hThe long transfer south. Evening in Berat's old quarters.
- Day 7Berat → Llogara → Himarë3 h 30Over the mountains and down to the Riviera.
- Day 8Himarë → Ksamil2 hCoastal villages and coves on the way, Ksamil by evening.
- Day 9Butrint → Blue Eye → Gjirokastër2 hRuins in the morning, spring at midday, fortress at sunset.
- Day 10Gjirokastër → Airport3 h 30Drive back with time for a last coffee in Tirana.
Short on time? This keeps the driving under three hours a day and still mixes sea, history and the capital.
- Day 1Airport → Krujë → Tirana1 hCastle and bazaar, then dinner in Blloku.
- Day 2Tirana → Berat2 hDajti cable car in the morning if the sky is clear, Berat by afternoon.
- Day 3Berat → Vlorë → Dhërmi2 h 45Lunch in Vlorë, afternoon swim on the Riviera.
- Day 4Dhërmi → Durrës → Airport3 h 30Stop at the Roman amphitheatre in Durrës on the way back.
Driving in Albania
What to know before you start the engine
The main roads between cities are in good shape and quick. The surprises come in towns, on mountain roads and after dark. Drive calmly and you will be fine.
The rules
Tolls
There is no vignette in Albania. You pay at a booth, and only on a few roads. Lek in cash is fastest.
| Road | Car, one way | When you'll hit it |
|---|---|---|
| A1 Thumanë–Kashar | 250 lek | Driving north from the Tirana area toward Shkodër |
| Llogara Tunnel | 250 lek | Vlorë to the Riviera. The old pass road is free |
| A1 Rruga e Kombit | €5 | Only toward Kukës and Kosovo |
Tips from local drivers
- Plan by hours, not kilometresAn average of 50–60 km/h is realistic outside the motorways. Mountain roads are slower.
- Avoid long drives after darkRural roads can be unlit, and you will meet cyclists, tractors, sheep and the odd cow.
- Expect bold overtakingKeep right, leave a gap and let faster cars pass. Nobody is racing you.
- Police checkpoints are normalSlow down, stop if waved over, and keep your licence, passport and rental papers in the car.
- Fuel is easy on main roadsFill up before the mountains: stations are scarce around Theth and the northern valleys.
- Parking on the RivieraBeach car parks are usually paid in cash, a few hundred lek. Arrive early in high season.
- Use offline mapsDownload the area in Google Maps or Maps.me. Signal drops in the mountains and some canyons.
- RoundaboutsTraffic inside the roundabout usually has priority, but watch what other drivers actually do.
When to go
The year at a glance
Albania has a long season. The coast is warm May to October, the mountains are open from spring to autumn, and every month has its own reason to visit.
July–August: hottest and busiest. Book rooms and your car early, start beach days early, and expect queues around Ksamil.
May–June, September–October: the sweet spot. Warm days, swimmable sea from June, and quieter roads.
November–April: cheap and quiet. Great for Tirana, Berat and Gjirokastër. Snow can close mountain roads to Theth.
Practical
Money, phones and staying safe
Money
The currency is the lek. Cards work in hotels, supermarkets and most city restaurants. Small cafés, beach bars, parking and village guesthouses often want cash. ATMs are everywhere in towns. Euros are widely accepted in tourist areas, but you usually get a better price in lek.
Phone & internet
Buy a local SIM or eSIM at the airport or a phone shop in town; data is cheap. Albania is outside the EU, so EU roaming plans may not cover it. Wi-Fi is standard in hotels and cafés.
Everyday tips
Albanians are famously hospitable, and the country is generally safe for travellers. A nod of the head can mean no and a shake can mean yes, so confirm with words. Rounding up or leaving about 10% in restaurants is appreciated.
Emergency numbers
FAQ
Common questions
Is it safe to drive in Albania?
Yes, for a calm and alert driver. Main roads between cities are modern. Take extra care in towns, on mountain roads and at night, and expect other drivers to overtake more boldly than at home.
Do I need a car to see Albania?
Buses and minibuses connect the main towns, but they are slow and the timetables are informal. Beaches, viewpoints, the Blue Eye, Apollonia and the mountain villages are much easier with your own car.
How many days do I need?
Seven days covers the south comfortably. Ten days lets you add the Alps and Lake Komani. With four days, stay central: Tirana, Krujë, Berat and a stretch of coast.
Do I need an International Driving Permit?
With an EU licence you do not. Non-EU licences not in the Latin alphabet need an International Driving Permit (IDP) together with your national licence. Rules can change, so check before you travel.
Can I drive to Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia or Greece?
The borders are easy to cross by car. You need our written permission (ask when you book), and you buy the extra insurance for the country you visit at the border itself.
Are there tolls?
Only a few. You pay about 250 lek on the A1 north of Tirana, and €5 on the road to Kosovo. The Llogara Tunnel and the Llogara Pass road are free. There is no vignette.
What is the best month to visit?
Every month works. May to October is high season for the coast, spring and autumn are perfect for mountain roads, and winter is mild and quiet with lower prices.