Theth is the most famous mountain village in Albania, at the end of the Shala valley in the Albanian Alps: stone towers, the Grunas waterfall and the Blue Eye of Theth within walking distance. Here is the honest, up-to-date guide to driving there from Tirana in a rental car.
Last updated: 20 October 2026. Road conditions in the Alps change with the weather; this page is reviewed every season by our own fleet team at Tirana Airport.
The route at a glance
- Distance: about 170 km one way
- Driving time: 4 to 5 hours without long stops
- Roads: A1 motorway to Shkodër, then the SH30 to Koplik, then the SH20 over the mountains to Theth
- Fuel: fill up in Tirana or Shkodër; the last reliable petrol stations are in Koplik area
- Best car: any car in our fleet from late spring to autumn; SUV (Jeep Renegade or Suzuki Vitara) in the shoulder months
Driving the mountain section
The mountain stretch after Koplik is fully paved but narrow and winding, with hairpins and occasional falling rocks after rain. Allow a full hour from Koplik to Theth village, slow down for oncoming traffic (buses and 4x4s pass often in summer) and drive the pass in daylight: sunrise to Theth in the morning, back before dark. There is no fuel, no ATM and patchy mobile signal on the pass itself.
What to do in Theth
Most visitors come for three things: the Blue Eye of Theth (a 45-minute walk from the village), the Grunas waterfall (20 minutes on foot) and the preserved lock-in tower in the village centre. Guesthouses serve the best traditional food you will eat in Albania; the national park entrance fee is a few euros, paid on the spot.
When to go
June to September: best window, the pass is fully open and guesthouses run at full capacity. May and October: beautiful and quiet, but check conditions the day before. December to February: the SH20 can hold snow and occasionally closes; follow the Valbona side only if you know conditions. Message us on WhatsApp the day you plan to drive and we will tell you what the road looks like and which car we would take.
Tirana to Theth FAQ
Is the road to Theth paved all the way?
Yes, the whole SH20 is asphalt now. It is the width and the hairpins that demand care, not the surface.
Can a small rental car do it?
Yes from late spring to autumn: our Hyundai i20 or VW Golf handle it comfortably driven calmly. In wet weeks or shoulder months we recommend the Jeep Renegade or an SUV for ground clearance.
Can I continue to Valbona?
Not by car over the pass in most of the year: the Valbona side is reached from Shkodër via Koman ferry, or by driving around through Kosovo. Ask us and we will plan the loop with you.
Is Theth open in winter?
A few guesthouses stay open and the village is magical under snow, but plan carefully: check the weather, carry winter kit, and confirm the pass is open the day you drive.